It’s hard to shop for seafood these days.

We hear, “Always buy wild, never farmed.” We hear, “Wild fish has plastic in it.” We hear, “Farmed fish is full of hormones and wrecks the local fish populations.” We hear, “Fish you buy at the grocery store is almost never what they label it.” We hear, “Don’t eat bottom feeders; they have too much mercury.”

We also hear that fish, especially fatty fish with omegas, is one of the healthiest things we can put in our bodies.

So how do we know what fish is an elixir of health, and which fish will destroy our bodies and the planet?

It depends where you live.

In Europe, fish farming is governed by strict standards that regulate antibiotic and chemical use, marine habitat protection, and fish welfare. I feel safe buying fish almost anywhere in Europe.

North America, on the other hand, allows each state and province to set its own rules. In B.C., where I live, these rules are not good enough.

Luckily, we have some excellent watch dogs.

In Canada, the Ocean Wise symbol on seafood means it’s a sustainable choice.

In the U.S., Seafood Watch is an excellent resource.

Internationally, The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) puts their seal of approval on fish that’s been sourced sustainably, and the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) concentrates on farmed fish.

A seal of approval from any of these sources makes me comfortable that the fish is both healthy to eat and good for the planet.

What about plastics in the ocean? Doesn’t wild fish have microplastics in it?

Yeah, it does. All the plastic packaging we buy and throw away? All the buckets and spades and flip flops that get washed away with the tide? These break down into microplastics that look like food to little fish — shrimp and krill and others. The bigger fish eat the smaller fish until the whole underwater food chain is full of the stuff. When you get up to the big fish, like mackerel and tuna, they have the highest concentration of plastic particles.

Some studies suggest that freshwater fish may contain lower levels of microplastics compared to seafood from marine sources.

Smaller fish — sardines, anchovies, farmed trout, fresh tilapia, arctic char — and bivalves like scallops, clams, and oysters don’t build up as many contaminants as the large carnivores. But they all have it.

Do we need to worry about it?

Yes and no.

These plastics are terrible for our long-term health. Chemicals like phthalates and bisphenol A can disrupt our hormone levels, cause inflammation, lead to heart disease, diabetes, and even cancer. Microplastics can accumulate in the digestive system, causing blockages and interfering with the absorption of nutrients. We don’t really know the extent of it yet — but we know it’s not good.

That said, several studies have found microplastics in nearly every protein source we eat — from chicken (and eggs) to tofu — and that the more processed a food is, the higher the plastic content is likely to be. We still have to eat — we just have to learn how to minimize our plastic intake for now, and then take on the challenge on eliminating plastic from the food chain.

So back to fish:

Salmon is its own conundrum: wild salmon is likely to have higher plastic levels than farmed salmon. But farmed salmon can contain higher levels of dioxins and POPs (persistent organic pollutants), which have been linked to Type-2 diabetes and obesity.

Should I just not buy salmon at all, then?

No way. Salmon is one of the healthiest foods for us — with omega 3 fatty acids that are brilliant for our hearts and our brains. We just have to know how to shop for it.

Seafood Watch has a salmon buying guide I trust. They recommend:

• All Canadian wild-caught salmon, except Chinook or coho salmons caught on British Columbia’s South Coast
• All U.S wild-caught salmon, except for Chinook salmon caught in the Puget Sound Chinook fishery and coho salmon caught in the Columbia River above the Bonneville Dam
• Chinook salmon farmed in New Zealand or British Columbia
• Atlantic salmon farmed in Maine or the Faroe Islands
• Farmed salmon from Norway (Production Areas 1, 12 or 13), Scotland’s Orkney Islands, Nova Scotia and Chile (Region XII Magallanes)
• Any salmon certified by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) or Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)

Do I need to consider mercury, too?

Yes. It’s important to be cautious of mercury levels in fish. High levels of consumption can cause serious health problems, like neurological and development issues, especially for children and pregnant women.

Large, predatory fish have the most mercury: shark, swordfish, fresh tuna, marlin, king mackerel, tilefish, and northern pike are foods to consume in small measures (once a week max., less if you’re pregnant or a growing child).

Healthier levels of mercury are in: shrimp, salmon, pollock, and catfish.

This is a lot. Give me a cheat sheet: how do I choose what’s safe and what isn’t?

YES LIST

• anything certified by the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC), Canada Organic, Friend of the Sea, the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and Naturland
• farmed catfish from U.S.A.
• farmed bivalves (mussels, clams, oysters, scallops) worldwide
• albacore tuna that’s caught with trolling lines or pole-and line fishing
• rainbow trout
• flounder and sole from the Pacific coast of North America
• wild salmon from most parts of the world
• farmed salmon from specific parts of the world

MAYBE LIST

Seafood Watch gets specific about species in this comprehensive guide.

Check out this list for specifics about sushi.

You can also shop at stores that do the vetting for you. Stores like Whole Foods and Mom’s Organic Market follow the Seafood Watch standards, so your only question at the counter is what looks good to you that day.

Some big chain restaurants are getting with the program. In the U.S., restaurants like The Cheesecake Factory and California Fish Grill have adopted the Seafood Watch standards.

And certain meal delivery companies, like Hello Fresh, Fresh Prep, and Blue Apron, only deliver sustainable seafood.

It’s exciting for me to see the growing list of companies and organizations who are taking these things seriously. The more of us who buy sustainable seafood, the louder the message is for all seafood producers (and governments!) to get with the program.

Enjoy your meal!